Although they may be trained, boas are active. With one hand supporting the head and the other the rear part, hold them firmly. While they could encircle you, they won't constrict until provoked.
Boa constrictors require safe, bespoke cages that are 10 square feet in size, with two skins, and a branch. Half-logs, caverns, or boxes can serve as hides. Use sterile tree branches or driftwood you may buy.
In their cage, boa constrictors require warm temperatures. Daytime: gradient of 82–90°F, basking of 90–95°F. 78-85°F during night. It is necessary to use precise thermometers and protected heat sources. Avoid hot rocks.
In most cases, boas don't require any specific UV illumination. The vitamin D that they would naturally make from exposure to the sun's UV rays should be provided for them in their diet.
By positioning a water dish and spraying often, the cage may be kept between 60 and 70% humid. The bowl may be used by snakes as a bath, so make sure it's solid & clean. Baths can assist with snake shedding.
For boa constrictor cages, you can use paper, reptile carpet, or bark as a base material. The easiest surfaces to clean are paper or carpet. Avoid using wood shavings.
Feed baby boas more frequently than older ones. Every 5-7 days, for small snakes, every 10–14 days, and every 3–4 weeks, for intermediate snakes. To prevent obesity, don't overeat. Adults eat rats/rabbits once a month; hatchlings consume mice/rabbits.
Boas must be handled carefully at all times. To prevent regurgitation, wait 24 hours after eating before handling them. To avoid inadvertent bites, don't feed by hand, use a stick, and wash your hands after touching food.
Due to mite transmission and inadequate cage heating, boa constrictors are susceptible to deadly illnesses including IBD and respiratory infections. Additionally, poor husbandry might lead to blister disease and scale rot.
Red-tail and northern pet boas are calm but powerful. Respect their power and handle them frequently. little upkeep after habit is established.