Due to their arboreal existence and timid, shy, and unwillingness to feed, green snakes are green. Not advised for handling or newcomers. improved for watching.
Green snakes require a tank with a tight-fitting cover, living or silk plants, and hiding places. For three snakes, a 30-gallon hexagonal tank is adequate.
The best heat source for snakes is an overhead lamp or ceramic emitter, with a heat pad added beneath the tank. Temperature gradient: 70–80 °F (2–27 °C), dropping to 65–75 °F (18–24 °C) at night.
A UVA/UVB lamp has to be lit for 10–12 hours each day for diurnal snakes. No visible or UVB light for the light-dark cycle at night. Use Durotest Vita-Lite or ZooMed. Every six months, replace UVB.
For this species, maintain a humidity of 40–50%; a water dish and periodic misting are helpful. In a dry winter, use a hygrometer and keep careful track. During shedding, raise to 60%.
For green snakes, use a substrate that is secure and simple to clean. Paper towels, newspaper without ink, or reptile carpet all work nicely. Avoid anything that can be eaten.
In the natural, green snakes eat worms and insects; in captivity, they consume caterpillars. A varied diet is essential, and to minimise impaction, stay away from hard exoskeletons.
Prey are gut-loaded, calcium-dusted, and fed once or twice a week at dawn and dusk. Misting and a little bowl of water for drinking or soaking. If not interested in eating, choose a quiet place.
A reptile veterinarian may be required to treat respiratory or fungal illnesses in green snakes. Additionally, mouth rot might happen, leading to irritation and tooth loss.
Avoid taking wild snakes since they might be in danger. Find green snakes that were reared in captivity. Snakes collected in the wild can have parasites and are under stress.